Thursday, August 2, 2012

Up the Peak

Sorry for the delays, there have been pressing family matters to attend to.  This post is from July 31st.

Like I said before, we would be going up to the Peak (山頂) eventually.  First, we would have to walk past some of the most famous landmarks in the city:
The Bank of China Tower, long a symbol of the city.
The headquarters of the Hong Kong Garrison of the People's Liberation Army (中國人民解放軍駐香港部隊).
But more on that in the politics post! 
2 IFC again.
In Statue Square (皇后像廣場) in Central, trilingual signs can be found all around:
Chinese, English, and Tagalog.  I think.  The hectic lifestyle of Hong Kong has caused many families with two working parents to hire domestic "helpers" from around Southeast Asia - especially the Philippines and Indonesia.  Each Sunday, on their traditional day off, they congregate in large numbers in public spaces, such as statue square, to chat and catch up with their friends.

Our first steps toward Victoria Peak are at this flight of stairs.
The Duddell Street (都爹利街) Steps and Gas Lamps are a relic of early colonial architecture in the city, built between 1875 and 1889.

We pass through the Hong Kong Zoological and Botanical Gardens (香港動植物公園):

And find Old Peak Road.

In the old days, the wealthy [British] would be carried on sedan chairs by local coolies up to their expansive mansions on the Peak, which was originally reserved for non-Chinese residents.  Today, the Peak remains one of the most expensive places to live on Earth, with prices hovering around $70,000 ($9000 CAD) a square foot.

Old Peak Road becomes a footpath about a third of the way up the Peak:
and here, you can almost forget about the bustling city below you:
A rock dislodged in that typhoon a week ago.
until the inevitable public washroom turns up:
In the occasional clearings, the views are spectacular (if not for the intense haze that has hovered over the city for the past week):
And four hundred metres up from where we started, we reach this place:
The terminus of the famous Peak Tram, and one of the most popular tourist attractions in the city, the complex at Victoria Gap (爐峰峽) attracts over seven million people each year (the entire population of the city) for its views over the largest skyline in the world.
My brother really wanted to try the wasabi McNugget dip, so we ended up going to the (overpriced) McDonald's:

On a good day, from the top of the Galleria, you can see Lamma Island (南丫島) in the distance, but today, only the town of Pok Fu Lam (薄扶林) on the southwestern coast of Hong Kong Island is visible.

The actual Peak is the mound on the right in this picture, the highest point on Hong Kong Island.

And the stereotypical view of Hong Kong below (with the stereotypical prerequisite that we did not pay for the observation deck in the Peak Tower):

We head over to the Tower and take the Peak Tram back down.
Completed in 1888, the Peak Tram is the quickest way up and down from Victoria Gap, with a maximum incline of 26 degrees above the horizontal.  The crowds at the terminus in Central are always huge, which is part of the reason why we decided to walk up.
Back in the city, we pass through Hong Kong Park (香港公園) nestled in the middle of the sea of skyscrapers:
And through Pacific Place (太古廣場), the Swire-owned upscale mall that lent its name to Pacific Mall in Markham.

Monday, July 30, 2012

Culture Shock!

Like I said before, there's an Indian restaurant in Sham Tseng:
Hopefully some readers will be able to tell me how [in]authentic this stuff is.

The soup tasted vaguely like curry powder.

Some tandoori chicken.  Apparently they actually flew in an oven from India.

Beef brisket curry.  I don't even have to ask, only Malaysians and Chinese eat this.

Chicken curry.  No other description.

Cabbage stir-fried with garlic, really?

Naan from that oven.

A house mix of lime, sugar, and soda water.
 \
Mango and some South Asian yogurt of some kind.

Later, I headed out with friends to the Golden Computer Shopping Arcade in Sham Shui Po.

Then we went to the Chungking Mansions (重慶大廈).  And walked around for a bit.  And I felt like I was back in Toronto.  The brown parts of Toronto.  Remember this place, F-1'ers?

We had an afternoon snack of "cart noodles" (車仔麵), named for the street carts on which they were originally sold.  The dish consists of various toppings of your choosing on a bed of noodles of your choosing in a soup of your choosing.  I got the beef brisket, daikon radish, and chicken wingtips on thick rice noodles (there was only one soup).

We walked around until we got to Temple Street (廟街):
A relatively quiet side street by day, Temple Street is one of Hong Kong's busiests nighttime street markets.

It is divided into two by the namesake temple.  Guess to which god[dess]?
Yep, it's another Tin Hau temple.  This particular one dates from 1800.  It and the park around it are a bit of calm in the middle of the bustling market.

Dinner was at this corner establishment.
Mido Café (美都餐室) is one of the oldest cha chaan tengs in the city.  Founded in 1950, only a few years after the Japanese had surrendered and only one after the founding of the People's Republic on the mainland, this place has been used over the years by photographers and film directors many times over for its distinctive nostalgic feel.

We started with a chicken, fish, and bok choy soup:

and continued with their braised eggplant (魚香茄子) with chicken (雞絲):

 And their signature dishes, baked spareribs on rice (焗排骨飯):
 And baked pork chops on rice (焗豬扒飯):
These dishes are made from deep-fried meats over a bed of eggy fried rice, topped with a "tomato" sauce and baked for a few minutes.  While other restaurants do make tastier, more "real"-tasting versions, this version is, like everything else in the building, nostalgic.  It comes from a time without the riches of today's Hong Kong, and so the dish is simple: there are no tomatoes in the sauce, just a bit of tomato paste, lots of cornstarch, and some MSG.

The obligatory vegetable of the meal:

And their other specialty, red bean and lotus seed ice (紅豆蓮子冰):

I think the cash register is original...